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The resin seeps out from the raw material of the pine coaster, making it impossible to clean and polish

Henry
I have brought a few of the TEMU coaster blanks.. Both the rounds and the squares. I am having some problems when I do fills in that the edge tends to bleed resin, which makes cleanup and sanding almost impossible.
These are raw pine wood.
Does anyone have any suggestions?? Does the wood need drying,treatment etc.

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Комментарии (4)

  • Pine, especially ponderosa pine I have found is full of pitch. That will burn. It doesn’t dry. I like the appearance but that needs to be a consideration.

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  • Resin does not disappear when timber is seasoned. I do most of my laser work on pine and have found the following negates the problem. Lower the power and increase passes to achieve the same results and/or coat the piece that you are working on with shellac prior to burning. Another alternative, which I find is the best, is to burn the design a little deeper and then sand the surface with a fine paper.

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  • Based on my experience, wood itself is already very thin and is likely to have dried out. Your wood needs to be sealed first to fill any gaps in the grain.

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  • Resin in coniferous wood is there regardless of how dry the wood is. Some softwoods such as spruce have less, while some such as pitch pine are dripping with the stuff, but it varies even with trees of the same species. The resin is soluble in white spirit or turpentine, so you could clean your wood with that before use, but it will only clean what’s on the surface. Giving it a coat of lacquer or varnish before use might also help a bit as well.

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